Спортивная подготовка

Спортивная Подготовка (СП) 2019

Overview

This program builds upon the skills acquired as part of any basic mountaineering class with focus on teaching and practicing the skills necessary to become competent climbing partners in technical rock, snow, ice and alpine environments along with developing some basic familiarity with leading in these environments.

New skills students will learn:

    • Multi-pitch rock climbing (both sport and trad)
    • Cleaning trad gear
    • Cleaning sport and trad anchors
    • Following and leading trad routes
    • Technical alpine, snow, rock and ice climbing

Existing skills students will practice:

  • Leading sport routes
  • Steep snow alpine climbing

The program also includes 4 alpine climbs which will give students the opportunity to reinforce
snow\glacier skills learned in a basic course as well as practice of the new skills listed above..

Pre-requisites

1. Membership in Gorizont Alpine Club

2. Completion of a beginner mountaineering course (Gorizont’s Начальная Подготовка,
Mountaineers’ Basic Alpine Climbing Course, WAC Climbing Class, or similar) within the last 2
years

OR Recent mountaineering experience equivalent to a basic mountaineering course:

  • Roped glacier travel
  • Crevasse rescue
  • Ice axe\crampons proficiency
  • Ascending a rope and rappelling
  • etc

3. Active lead *and* lead belay certification from any rock climbing gym

4. Ability to climb at least 5.9 on top rope in a climbing gym

* The above are the *minimum* requirements for joining the program. If you have have additional skills and experience (e.g. lead belay, sport\trad leading, alpine climbing, etc) but would like to refresh your skills\fill in the gaps\learn new skills\etc, you’re more than welcome to apply as well. While we will follow the general pattern described here, some details of the program will be adjusted as necessary to ensure it’s suitable for all students.

* You can apply before obtaining a lead certification but must obtain it before the program starts.

* If you’re unable to complete requirement #3 due to lack of climbing partners, please know that several Gorizont rock climbers go to Bellevue Stone Gardens on Tue and Thu evenings and will be happy to help you improve your climbing skills as well as help with preparation for taking a lead test at the gym.  However, note that (1) we can’t teach you in Stone Gardens, so you will likely want to take a 2-evening course to get certified and (2) this requirement must be fulfilled before СП 2019 starts in mid-March.

 

Maximum # of students:    4

Cost:  $150

General Program Notes

  • The program will run from the middle of March to the beginning of August with outings\climbs approximately every other weekend and mid-week evening classroom\Marymoor Park sessions (refer to schedule below for details).
  • Most outings will build upon skills learned and practiced during previous outings. As such, there will be a strict attendance policy.
  • Students can miss a single outing (with specific prior arrangements made with instructors)
  • Missing more than 1 outing will result in termination from the program
  • For successful completion of the program, students will need to attend 3 of the 4 alpine
    climbs.
  • If the first alpine rock climb is missed, student will not be able to attend the
    second one.
  • If the first alpine snow\ice climb is missed, student will not be able to attend the second
    one.
  • This policy is one of necessity. Alpine climbing is serious business and we need to be sure that the students we take on real routes in the mountains are ready for them.
  • The intensity of the program will allow students to get a feel for what life is like when you’re serious about climbing. It’s not a hobby easily shared with other hobbies or activities and it will involve many weekends away from family\significant others.

 

Preliminary schedule

* WA weather is famously uncertain in March-June. While there is more certainty (weather-wise) with some outings (e.g. Vantage\Leavenworth\Smith Rock), others are very much weather-dependent. Thus, the schedule should be taken with a grain of salt – specific weekends, as well as locations and routes, may be adjusted due to weather or other conditions beyond our control.

Date Location Description
3/13/2019 Classroom – Meet-and-greet between students and instructors

– Program overview

3/17/2019 Marymoor Park – Knots, lead\top-rope belay, rappel

– Basic single-pitch climbing sequence refresher

3/23/2019 – 3/24/2019 Mount Hood, WA Alpine snow\ice climb #1, e.g.:

– Mount Hood\Leuthold Couloir

   – Mount Hood\Devil’s Kitchen Headwall

4/6/2019 –

4/7/2019

Vantage, WA – Sport leading

– Sport anchor cleaning

– Sport multi-pitch climbing

– Trad basics (e.g. gear cleaning)

4/21/2019 Leavenworth, WA – Multi-pitch trad climbing, e.g.:

– Tree Route

– Stump Route

– R&D

– Trad anchor cleaning

5/4/2019 –

5/5/2019

Smith Rock, OR – Trad leading

– Multi-pitch sport\trad climbing

5/25/2019 –

5/27/2019

Cle Elum, WA Gorizont’s Альпиниада

– Trad climbing at Tieton River

Alpine rock climb #1, e.g.:

– Tooth\South Face

– Ingalls\South Ridge

6/15/2019 –

6/16/2019

Squamish, Canada

(or another location depending on weather)

– Multi-pitch trad climbing

– Trad leading

7/6/2019 – 7/7/2019 Buckner Mountain, WA Alpine snow\ice climb #2, e.g.:

– Mount Baker\North Ridge

– Buckner\North Face

– Mount Rainier\Kautz Glacier

7/20/2019 –

7/21/2019

Goode Mountain, WA Alpine rock climb #2, e.g.:

– Forbidden Peak\East Ridge

– Forbidden Peak\NW Face

– Goode Mountain\Northeast Buttress

– Mount Stuart\West Ridge

 

Registration process

  • Registration will be open until February 15, 2019

Applicants send email with completed questionnaire (see below) to clubgorizont@gmail.com

Please use e-mail subject line “SP 2019 application

  • 4 accepted applicants will be informed by end of February, 2019
  • Program payment ($150) is due before the first program meeting on March 13, 2018

Questionnaire

Question Response
General Info
1. First and Last Name
2. Link to Facebook personal page
Climbing\skills resume
1. Have you completed a basic mountaineering course?

If so, which one and when?

2. What climbs (basic mountaineering level or harder) have you completed over the past 2 years? (mountain\route\date)

*Please limit your responses to 10 climbs and list the most challenging routes first

3. Do you regularly climb in a rock climbing gym?

Which one, how often and what route difficulty?

4. Do you have current lead and lead belay certification from any climbing gym?

Which one and how often do you lead climb?

5. If you have any specific climbing\mountaineering goals, please list them here

(e.g. Mountains\routes you would like to climb, specific skills you would like to obtain, etc)

 

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